Pig, Big
A real porker of a six-course menu
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
I
promise. One day soon, I will give poultry connoisseurs, seafood aficionados, and vegetarians a little lovin’. But for now, I must discuss more meat. More pig, to be exact. This time I’m branching out from behind the bacon and engaging the entire being. That’s right. Cheryl’s gone hog wild … again.
And there’s a place for people like me to celebrate all things pig. T.W. Food restaurant's second annual PigFest 2010. Chef Tim Wiechmann presents a six-course menu ($65) tomorrow (May 13) that features various pork dishes (think beyond just the other white meat) accompanied by spring ingredients such as fiddleheads, baby greens, and the beloved soft-shell crab.
Enter this unassuming brick building in Cambridge and discover an unpretentious world of purely porcine cuisine created from local sustainably raised pigs—hams, pork belly, sausage, pigs’ feet. Add $39 and you can pair every course with biodynamic wines. Good for the planet and your palette. Not so good for the pigs, I’m afraid.
Begin your evening with cured lardo (that’s pork belly), foie gras, and roasted beet salad with a Calvados vinaigrette. The second course is a little surf and turf, with brioche-crusted soft-shell crab with braised Berkshire pork shank, blood sausage, and pickled green cabbage. Follow this with a Virginia-style house-smoked Ham with whole-wheat orecchiette and a cream sauce utilizing one of my personal springtime favorites … fiddleheads.
The fourth course, Tourte Aux Pieds Et Oreilles De Porc, sounds lovely when spoken through French lips. But when you hear it translated ("pig foot and pig ear") you might have second thoughts about letting it cross yours. Fear not: It’s delicious, becoming less frightening and more flavorful as a cake with potato and puff pastry.
Abandon the unknown as a traditional cheese plate awaits in the fifth course, with offerings from the pig’s farmhouse brethren—Greta’s Fairhaven goat’s milk from Carlisle, and Strachitunt artisanal cow’s milk from Lombardy, Italy. The final act comes in the form of a delightful Terrine au Chocolat, not a pig in sight—Valrhona chocolate and cinnamon ice cream terrine with almond dacquoise and saffron whipped cream.
With all these amazing dishes and intriguing ingredients, this year’s PigFest is sure not to be … a boar.
Small Bites
Asian hot-pot restaurant Shabu Shabu Toki, has joined forces with Brookline’s Super Fusion to reopen as Toki Super Fusion Cuisine in Allston. This 88-seat Japanese bistro will serve up platefuls of specialty sushi (such as a lemon-sauced fried papaya cream cheese topped with smoked salmon and wasabi), savory ramens, and elegant appetizers.
Dirty Dogs, Burgers & More, an eat-in/take-out grill, has opened in the former Boar’s Nest Deli location in Quincy. As the meaty name suggests, this 17-seat grubbery serves up local twists including the “Cape Cod Dog,” topped with cole slaw, and the “Monster,” a three-patty burger with hefty cheese and bacon fixings.
A tasty blend of Cajun and Asian cuisine has arrived in Dorchester as Brother’s Crawfish opens. Dedicated to offering East-meets-West fusion dishes, it specializes in fried battered seafood (using its own “Brother’s Butter”), including the Oriental Express crawfish, and 50-cent sides.
Additional reporting by Yumi Araki.
Also read Cheryl Fenton’s health and beauty blog, Easy Peasy.




