nce you find it on the second floor above a used bookstore and a record store, you’ll discover Shabu-Ya to be the kind of place where the sushi chef greets you enthusiastically when you walk in, and again on your way out. But not even the warm welcome will distract you from the green and pink chairs, the blue counter, or the orange couches. Or the metallic beaded curtains. The pop music. The huge flat-screen TVs broadcasting ESPN. It’s supposed to make you feel like you’re in a pot of shabu-shabu, the fondue-style dish that is the specialty here. You pick your meat, broth, and garnishes, cook them in your shabu-shabu pot with vegetables and noodles, and, miyo! Your meal is ready. Or try the sushi, which comes as beautifully presented as the room. Horton