hen Tina Santoro Asmar took over a sad old convenience store near a golf driving range and converted it into a homey trattoria, the whole neighborhood got brighter. And noisier. Asmar simultaneously cooks like an Italian grandmother from the old country and jokes nonstop with other employees and the regulars who would prefer to keep this secret (and her) to themselves. The gourmet sandwiches and hot entrees at Santoro's Sicilian Trattoria, which come in pans that look like Grandma just pulled them out of the oven, will make you want to buy a Vespa and say “Ciao!” to people as you ride past. The especially popular lasagna and chicken parmigiana entrées feature a sweet tomato sauce and fresh cheeses. Still hungry? Give in to temptation and try the whoopie pie, big enough to share with the entire family. You can all take home oven-ready entrées. Jacobson