hef Barbara Lynch’s Italian restaurant, Sportello, hasn’t gotten the attention of its older siblings, No. 9 Park, the Butcher Shop, and B&G Oysters. It deserves it, though, for the signature Fontina fonduta alone. This simple Fontina cheese fondue stands apart thanks to its superb ingredients—intensely spiced, thick salami, caramelized leeks, soft potatoes, and crusty bread—that are perfect for dipping, alone or all together. Sportello stands on fresh, superb ingredients in all of its simple appetizers, pasta, panini, and entrees, served on sleek, chic, white diner-style countertops before an open kitchen. Everything is made in-house, including all the pastas. Another secret: You can buy the sweets and breads made in the street-level bakery to take away, along with organic Peruvian coffee and espresso, loose teas, hot chocolate, and breakfast pastries, and sandwiches, soups, pastas, and salads for lunch. Tuder