ome of Boston’s most authentic traditional Chinese food is not, in fact, in Chinatown. It’s at Shanghai Gate, hidden—and we mean hidden—just off Commonwealth Avenue in Allston. One way you can tell is by the number of authentic Chinese customers, who usually pack the tiny tables at dinnertime (though you’ll rarely have to wait long, and, no, reservations aren’t accepted). The other way is to try the black bean chicken wraps and melt-in-your-mouth steamed pork buns. Splurging? Try the sautéed shrimp, served with a light vinegar and ginger sauce—it’s not on the menu so you have to ask for it. Just don’t expect any Chinese-American misfits like crab rangoon or fortune cookies. Rineman