eople go to Cape Cod, in part, because it's old. That doesn't mean it has to be stodgy. Skip the doily tablecloths and the quilted bedspreads and settle in at the Captain's House, an off-the-beaten-track former sea captain’s estate now run as a hip, under-the-radar B&B by a young couple who used to work at the Boston Harbor Hotel and other properties. It's got all the standard equipment—beam ceilings, walnut plank floors—but adds whirlpools, WiFi, a fitness center, and a heated pool, plus gourmet breakfasts by a chef who previously worked in the pastry department at the stellar Wequasset Inn, served in a bright and airy dining room or outside on a quiet patio by hospitality and tourism students recruited from England. Another secret? Book the Lydia Harding Suite, which takes up the entire second floor of the converted stable and has two fireplaces, a whirlpool, and a full-length balcony.