onetime fish market turned restaurant, the Brewster Fish House is a local favorite. But without a clever name or a fancy building or décor, it's off the tourist track. All the better for us. Line up with the regulars for traditional seafood from fish and chips to chowder but also some unexpectedly sophisticated dishes such as grilled lacquered native lobster with ponzu sauce and shiitake mushrooms and seared yellowtail flounder with sea urchin fricassee, all reasonably priced by Cape Cod standards. The wine list is almost as long as the line outside, with many wines served by the glass, and even a few dishes for landlubbers, including Wolfe’s Neck Farm ribeye with a smoked chili glaze and pan-seared Long Island duck breast.