fter you've freed yourself from the arriving ferry (or before you have to board to leave), get into the Vineyard spirit by relaxing at Zephrus Zeafood & Grill, a happy compromise on an island most of whose dining options seem to involve either stratospheric prices at one end or paper plates and plastic cutlery at the other. The restaurant, which is where the locals go, offers fresh salads and generous-sized sandwiches or larger entrees served all day at reasonable prices to eat in the welcoming dining room or screened-in front porch, or to take to the beach or on the ferry trip to Woods Hole.